Gingko leaves

IMG_3795The most elegant leaves in the world belong to a living fossil. 

The ginkgo biloba (ichō) tree has remained virtually unchanged for over 200 million years, and is the only species on earth with no known living relatives.  But when you look at a ginkgo tree you’re more likely to admire its unusual fan-shaped leaves, which turn a beautiful shade of yellow in autumn, than to be thinking about science.

The ginkgo is understandably a hearty tree.  They thrive in urban environments, even inIMG_3797 poor soil and polluted air.  Their resistant to pests, possibly because the outer covering of their seeds has a terrible smell.  But perhaps the best proof of the gingko’s resilience is the fact that six small trees inside the blast zone in Hiroshima in 1945 survived the atom bomb, and continued to flourish there for many years. 

IMG_3794The ginkgo owes the unusual spelling of its name to Engelbert Kaempfer, a German physician and naturalist who lived in Japan from 1690-1692.  Kaempfer cataloged many Japanese plants and brought their seeds back to Europe;  he apparently meant to record the name of this tree as “ginkyo” or “ginkio,” but made a clerical error.

The ginkgo tree are also famous for lining the moat around the Imperial Palace in Tokyo.

Mingei

IMG_3781The term mingei, meaning “folk arts” or “folk crafts,” was created in 1926 by Japanese philosopher Yanagi Soetsu.  According to Yanagi, the most beautiful objects a country could produce weren’t the works of individual skilled creative artists but were instead objects made by ordinary people for practical use which reflected patterns and values handed down by generations of their fellow countrymen.IMG_3782

In Yanagi’s view, mingei are items that are inexpensive, designed for daily use by common citizens, usually handmade, and almost always made by anonymous crafts people. Yanagi’s treatise, TheUnknown Craftsman: A Japanese Insight into Beauty, revolutionized popular opinion in Japan, and around the world.

IMG_3706Mingei items often have a rough-hewn look, like this white hashioki with 3-D swirls on top, or these blue and green in the shape of a traditional Japanese kura storehouse and a bird. The pieces were formed by hand, not by machine, and they appear to have been glazed in a wood-ash IMG_3708kiln.  The kura storehouse piece is particularly appropriate because that is the shape of the MingeikanJapanese Folk Crafts Museum founded by Yanagi in a Tokyo suburb.

 

 

These two hashioki have the same irregular flat shape.  The one on the left has been decorated to look like an indigo-dyed textile; there are even lightly incised lines on the

IMG_3707 surface to replicate the texture of a textile. The one on the right purposely combines different patterns, suggesting a mended article or a patchwork quilt.  Both styles of decoration have mingei roots.

IMG_3705This last hashioki, which was labeled as a mingei piece by the vendor, is very handsome, but doesn’t really fit the definition of mingei.  It’s too symmetrical, too orderly, and obviously made by a machine.  I’ve included it here as a testament to the power of labeling.

 

Yanagi is credited with reviving interest in folk crafts in Japan and throughout the world, and in helping to demonstrate that there is compelling beauty in the imperfect and unprofessional.

 

Lacquer

If you’ve been to a Japanese restaurant, you’ve probably been served miso soup in a lacquer bowl, and perhaps had a chance to observe how lightweight yet durable items made from lacquer can be.

In Japan lacquerware is also known as shikki or as nurimono, meaning “coated things.”  This term alludes to way the items are produced, which involves applying multiple wafer-thin coats of lacquer to a base of wood or leather.  It’s a time-consuming process because the lacquer has to dry between coats, and a little dangerous because the lacquer can cause severe allergic reactions before it dries and hardens.

Archeologists have excavated lacquer items from Jomon era pits in Hokkaido which date from 5,000 BCE.  That makes lacquer one of the great mysteries of the pre-modern world, because it is made by heating and filtering the sap of the urushi (Rhus vernicifera) tree, and it is highly toxic until it has dried and hardened.  How did these ancient people know they could make a strong, shiny finish from the harvested sap of these trees?  How did they know to heat it?  How many people died before they figured out that it was toxic when liquid but safe to handle when hardened?  Inquiring minds want to know!

IMG_3696High end lacquerware, like this hashioki set from a famous nurimono shop in Tokyo, is sanded and polished between each coat of lacquer.  The lacquer is sometimes tinted, which produces color that has depth, and sometimes enamel or golf leaf decorations are applied before the final coats of clear lacquer are applied. Lacquer can be so strong that it was used for body armor of samurai warriors.

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Inexpensive lacquerware, like these hashioki and probably your miso soup bowl, is made by applying a clear coating to a painted wood or even plastic base.

 

IMG_3693I think this last hashioki demonstrates the beauty of lacquerware.  But the item is also interesting in itself; it is a rice scoop, a traditional tool used in threshing or the removal of the grains of rice from the stalks.  The chopstick rest is very small, but according to the photos the items used during the rice harvest were often several feet long.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chrysanthemums

IMG_3683The chrysanthemum is autumn’s most popular flower around the world, but the kiku is particularly celebrated in Japan.  Starting in September, the month when they generally start to bloom in Japan, there are chrysanthemum shows and displays across the country, and long rows of chrysanthemums line the walkways of every temple and public building.  The chrysanthemum is so popular that it’s a little surprising there aren’t more kiku hashioki.

The chrysanthemum of also the symbol of Japan’s Imperial Family; Emperor Akihito sits on the Chrysanthemum Throne.   So I was excited when I found this white chrysanthemum, because I thought it portrayed the Imperial crest, which I had seenIMG_3682 adorning temples  and other buildings patronized by the Emperor.  But when I counted the petals I saw that this hashioki has 12 petals, while the Imperial crest always has 16 rounded petals. Perhaps Imperial chrysanthemum hashioki are not marketed to mere mortals.

In any case, the lesson from nature here is that the very form of a flower can be sufficiently awe-inspiring to serve as a symbol for royalty.

Bamboo

 

IMG_3687This evergreen grass is omnipresent in Japan, both as a design motif, and as a material for many things, including chopstick res

A famous Japanese proverb tells us that bamboo bends, but never breaks, in a strong wind, which is a testament to its supple strength.  Other proverbs about bamboo celebrate its hollow core, which allows it to be open to new ideas and knowledge, and its quick growth. Generations of Japanese warriors, along with today’s students and employees, have been encouraged to be like a bamboo.

IMG_3684Bamboo shoots or sprouts are a popular vegetable in Japanese cuisine.  They are served steamed, stir-fried or pickled, and prized for their sweet taste and firm texture.  And cups and vases made from bamboo culms cut below the solid nodes that appear at regular intervals along the stems grace many Japanese tables.  Bamboo cups are especially good for holding ice cold sake!

 

IMG_3691Bamboo is also beautiful in an understated way.  The long and narrow leaves make an attractive pattern, both in real life and as a decoration.  Bamboo rarely flowers;  some species only flower once every 60 to 120 years, and the plant often dies after it flowers.  I like the way stalks sway and the leaves tremble when a gentle wind passes through a bamboo forest.  There is a famous pathway through a bamboo forest in the town of Arashiyama, just outside of IMG_3689Kyoto, that feels truly magical when you are surrounded by the rustling bamboo.

To me hashioki made from bamboo are more aesthetically appealing that those made from other materials.  Because bamboo is simple, humble, pure and light, and because it comes from nature, I think bamboo is the quintessential stuff from which Japanese hashioki are made.

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Ishidatami

At first glance, the decoration on this hashioki looks like it was inspired by a Cubist artist.  Maybe Picasso or Braque?  Maybe Mondarin?  Or perhaps Rothko?

DSC01143But in fact this is a traditional Japanese pattern inspired by pavement.

Ishidatami is the Japanese word for “paving stones.”  Ishi means stone, and datami is probably a form of the word tatami, as in the tatami mats that are the traditional floor coverings in Japanese homes.  Paving stones provided travelers with a secure and solid walkway in parts of Japan where it rains or snows a lot, and where the pre-modern roads or trails often went up and down mountains.  Ishidatami were a fixture on the Tokaido Road and the Nakasendo, the two major historic highways that linked Tokyo and Kyoto.    Some of the original ishidatami, dating back to the early 17th. Century, still exist on the parts of these roads that still survive.  In some places – particularly places favored by tourists – the ishidatami have also been restored.

I’ve seen original or restored ishidatami on both these roadways.  It’s hard not to admire because the patterns made by the stones are beautiful, and because seeing them makes you appreciate how hard it must have been to transport these stones by hand up and down mountains, and then install them in such a way that they would last for decades or even centuries.

Maybe an ishidatami hashioki can last that long, too?

Japanese mountains

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When you think about a Japanese mountain, you probably picture Mt. Fuji , Japan’s iconic symmetrical volcanic cone with its saw-toothed crown.  In other words, you probably envision something that looks a lot like this hashioki which was included in my June 2017 “Fuji-san” post.

But when I think about Japanese mountains I see something that looks more like this identical pair of chopstick rests.

DSC01140My first trip to Japan was in the spring of 1991, when my husband had a 3-month visiting appointment to teach at the International University of Japan.  IUJ is located just outside a small town called Urasa, 125 miles northwest of Tokyo, in a valley surrounded by rolling waves of mountains that often fade into the hazy distance.   Seventy-three percent of Japan’s topography are mountains, and most of them are mountains like this:  relatively low, strung together in long low mountains that are relatively low, and covered with green trees and shrubs for half of the year.  During the colder months these mountains are often blanketed with 10 or 12 feet of snow, making the area a mecca for skiers.  I think the striations on this pair almost look like ski runs.

I purchased these hashioki from an eBay vendor in Thailand, but I like to think that they were made by someone who was also remembering the mountainous spine of central Tohoku.

This modern hashioki shows a mountain that is less melancholy than the pair above, butDSC01142 still very typical for Japan.  Even though it’s a-mass produced piece, I like how the glaze is foggy and indistinct, and how the edges fade to white.  It’s made by a company whose slogan is “pleasure of ordinary days,” and I certainly agree that one of those pleasures can be contemplating smoky mountains – even if you’re looking at them on the dining room table instead of seeing them in the distance.

When is a house more than a house?

DSC01080When is a house more than a house?  When it’s a hashioki, of course!  Or in this case, when it’s actually FOUR hashioki.

There’s actually a whole subgenre of chopstick rests that fit together in some way, or which appear to be something other than hashioki.  I’ve written about a set that looks like a hot pot meal, and another set where four donut shaped rests stack on a post to form the body of a monkey.  I love it!  This porcelain set was made in Japan,  but sold by an eBay vendor from Singapore.

The style of this house is reminiscent of the shimei-zukuri style of architecture that is used at Shinto shrines like Ise.  The buildings there are constructed from Japanese cypress without using nails,  and are ritually rebuilt every 20 years.

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But I am embarrassed to admit that I couldn’t figure out where the skinny rectangular piece  on the far right fit into this house when I got it;  I had to go back to the original eBay listing to see that it formed the chimney.

Message hashioki

Sometimes hashioki literally send a message.

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The Japanese inscription on these two hashioki reads irashaimase dōzo goyukkuri, which means “Please relax and enjoy your meal.” It is the perfect chopstick rest for a restaurant to set their table with.

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The hiragana on this hashioki reads arigatō, which is one of the words used to express thanks in Japanese. The full phrase that means “thank you very much” is dōmo arigatō, or if you’re being even more polite, dōmo arigatō gozaimasu, but arigatō is a perfectly acceptable way to say thanks. This would also be a good hashioki for a restaurant, or perhaps a good one to set the table with at awards or appreciation dinner.Message2

This charming cat has the Japanese phrase itadakimasu inscribed across his tummy. It’s the traditional phrase the Japanese utter before beginning a meal. While it technically means “I humbly receive,” in practice it sounds more like “Let’s eat!”

Message3Apparently there’s a connection between cats and good food, for this cat has the phrase Gochiso across her tummy, which is said at the end of a meal to indicate that it was delicious. Yoga enthusiasts may also recognize this cat is ironically in a down dog position.

 

Sometimes all you need is one word — or in this case, one character — to send aMessage6 powerful message. This frog hashioki and white cat hashioki (in the middle) are inscribed with the single kanji fuku, meaning fortune or blessing. The maneki neko on the right stands on a base inscribed with the kanji for shuku, meaning celebrate or congratulate. These hashioki are therefore appropriate for almost any occasion or situation.

This final set of cat hashioki prove that there is often more than one way to send a message. Four of the five cats in this set have the words Shiawase, yoi koi, yatti koi — an idiomatic phrase which the vendor who sold them to me translated as “Happiness, come, come — please come.” The fifth member of the troupe, the cat in upper left hand corner,

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has no writing on his stomach. I guess after you read the sentiment on his four siblings there’s no need to repeat it one more time. I can’t resist suggesting that “The power of five” (please refer to my November 2017 post) almost guarantees that happiness will indeed come if you set your table with this 5 piece set of hashioki.

December 11, 2017

 

 

 

 

 

Buddhist and Shinto symbols

There aren’t many Buddhist or Shinto hashioki, which is a little odd because it seems like there’s a Buddhist temple or Shinto shrine on every other street corner in Japan. Maybe people think objects associated with religion or something sacred don’t belong at the dinner table, or maybe it’s just an untapped market.

IMG_3532The mokugyo is a kind of bell, carved from a single block of wood and struck with a wooden stick. They are traditionally made in the shape of a fish, although this example is in the shape of a dragon. This percussion instrument is used to set the rhythm during the chanting of sutras, particularly in Zen Buddhism.

These hashioki depict the base of a lotus plant, which is a water flower similar to a water Buddhist2lily. The lotus is a sacred flower in Buddhism; Buddha traditionally sits on a lotus mount. The lotus is associated with marital love and harmony, but is also associated with death — which perhaps dampens the appeal of hashioki shaped like them.

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Perhaps the lotus has religious connotations because its’ roots thrive in the muddy muck of a marsh, and yet it produces handsome leaves and flower heads above water level.  The lotus flower is shown in the blue and white hashioki here on the top.  Portions of the large pond in Ueno Park in Tokyo are so filled with lotus plants by late summer that you cannot see the water, and it is an arresting sight, even when the blooms or pods are dried out.  The lotus root or renkon is also a staple of Japanese cuisine;  the two hashioki on the bottom here may remind you that you have seen this vegetable as a pickle or in stir fry’s.

 

 

IMG_3531If you’ve been to Japan you’ve undoubtedly seen rows of stone Jizo statues, many of them wearing red bibs around their necks, on the grounds of Buddhism temples. Rarely more than 18” high, the Jizo statues look like child monks, which is appropriate because they are associated with dead children, specifically children who were aborted. Jizo also protect pregnant women, and safeguard travelers, which explains why you also see them at crossroads, particularly in rural areas.

IMG_3535The phoenix (hōō) is often a symbol of Buddhism is Japan, although it is also one of the symbols for the imperial family, specifically the empress. The most famous phoenixes in Japan are the pair that preside over the roof of the Hōō-dō hall at the famous Byōdō-in Buddhist temple in Uji, outside of Kyoto. The wooden Hōō-dō is the only original building still standing in the temple complex, and it dates from 1053. It sits on the edge of a large pond, and the pond’s reflection of the building’s center hall with corridors on either side is said to resemble a phoenix with outstretched wings. Uji is also a center for tea production, and the setting for the last chapters of The Tale of Genji.

The entrance to every Shinto shrine is marked by a torī gate which marks the boundaryIMG_3589 between the regular world and sacred space.. According to historian Basil Hall Chamberlain, the torī was originally a perch for sacred fowls which crowed to announce daybreak.(1)  While this hashioki is made from sterling silver,  and has the appropriate patina of a little tarnish, torī are usually painted bright red and often soar several stories high.

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Shimenawa, or sacred rope of braided rice straw, also appear at the entrance to Shinto shrines, either wrapped around trees or large rocks, hanging over the entrance to a shrine building, or coiled around the base of a torī gate. Like those gates, shimenawa delineate the boundary of sacred space. Shimenawa are considered to have magical powers, although probably not in their hashioki form.

(1) Chamberlain, Basil Hall.  Things Japanese:  Being Notes on Various Subjects Connected with Japan.  Berkeley:  Stone Bridge Press, 2007 (reprint of 1905 edition), p. 514.